Surf Forecast Archive

Maui Surf Report for October 29th, 2017

10-15 foot 4-6+ foot 1-3 foot 1-4 foot The current northwest swell continues to gradually decline early this morning. The NOAA buoys located northwest of the state are measuring a swell height of around 7 feet with a wave period of 12 to 13 seconds, while the PacIOOS buoys near northern Kauai and Oahu continue to register a swell height of 8 to 9 feet with a wave period of 13 to 14 seconds. As a result, the High Surf Advisory has been extended until noon HST today for north and west facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, and Molokai, and for north facing shores of Oahu and Maui. The Small Craft Advisory has been cancelled for all Hawaiian waters this morning, since combined seas have dropped below the threshold of 10 feet. Light trade winds will continue over the island chain today. A cold front advancing toward the region from the northwest will cause winds to veer out of the southeast from late tonight through Monday. As the front continues to approach the area, winds will become southerly near Kauai and Oahu, and remain southeasterly elsewhere from Monday night through Wednesday. Trade winds are expected to make a gradual return starting Thursday. Note that SCA conditions are not forecast through the middle of ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 28th, 2017

10-20+ foot 4-6+ foot 2-4 foot 2-4+ foot A large, long-period northwest swell continues across the Hawaiian waters early this morning. Recent observations suggest the swell height may be a couple of feet above guidance. As a result, a High Surf Warning remains in effect through this afternoon for most north and west facing shores of the islands from Kauai and Niihau to Maui. In addition, a High Surf Advisory remains in effect for west facing shores of Maui and north facing shores of the Big Island. A Small Craft Advisory also remains posted for Hawaiian waters exposed to this swell due to elevated and hazardous seas. Winds are forecast to remain well below the SCA criteria this weekend. Light to locally moderate northeast winds are occurring over portions of the coastal waters in the vicinity of Kauai and Oahu this morning due to a slight tightening of the gradient behind a weak front that sagged down over the western end of the island chain overnight. The surface winds are expected to shift to a more typical trade wind direction, and weaken later today and tonight. The large northwest swell will gradually subside from later today through Sunday. Therefore, the shorelines that are presently in the warning will likely be under a High ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 27th, 2017

12-18++ foot 5-8+ foot 2-4 foot 5-7+ foot A large long-period northwest swell will move across Hawaiian waters during the next couple of days. Buoy 51001, located 180 nm northwest of Kauai, continues to feel the low amplitude forerunners of this swell early this evening. A sharp rise in the swell is expected overnight into Friday, and warning level surf will be reaching our shores around day break Friday. A High Surf Warning has been issued for most north and west facing shores from Kauai to Maui for the rapidly building surf late tonight. This swell will peak on Friday at around 12 ft 20 seconds, and due to its long-period energy, we expect exposed portions of the Puna coast on the Big Island to receive advisory level surf. With this large northwest swell, a Small Craft Advisory is in effect for most waters due to the elevated and hazardous seas accompanying this swell. The swell will gradually decline on Saturday. Elsewhere, a small long period west-northwest swell will persist into Saturday, and southeast swell in the 2 to 3 foot range will continue through much of the weekend. Winds will remain below Small Craft Advisory levels through early next week. Moderate to locally fresh northerly winds will gradually decline through Friday as we head ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 25th, 2017

10-15+ foot 5-8+ foot 3-5 foot 2-4+ foot A front near the northern tip of the Big Island this morning will be moving slowly east through tonight. It is slated to be east of the Big Island by Thursday morning. The front is then expected to stall and weaken to a trough over the eastern offshore waters during the second half of the week. A large north-northwest swell, generated by a strong low pressure system 600 nm north of Kauai a couple of days ago, is spreading across the island waters this morning. This swell is larger than expected, prompting a high surf warning for the north and west facing shores of a few islands, and a high surf advisory for the west facing shores of Oahu. The warning and advisory are in effect until 6 pm HST this evening. Advisory level surf will likely continue for the same shorelines into tonight, so the High Surf Warning will need to be transitioned over to an advisory later today, with the advisory possibly running right through the night. Near-shore buoys, Hanalei and Waimea, including Buoy 51101, located 185 nm northwest of Kauai are reporting swell heights of 12 to 14 feet the past couple of hours. Therefore, we expect elevated, dangerous surf for today for our north and west facing shores. The large swell has also resulted in ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 23rd, 2017

4-6+ foot Flat 0-2 foot 0-2 foot Light winds continue across the coastal waters tonight. The background flow is expected to become more south and southwest overnight and Monday is response to a front moving towards the islands from the northwest. The front will move towards the islands overnight and Monday, and reach Kauai waters by Monday evening. As it continues to move down the island chain, look for the front to reach Big Island waters Tuesday. Heavy showers and thunderstorms will be possible along and east of the front. Some of the thunderstorms may be strong enough to warrant Special Marine Warnings. Behind the front, fresh to locally strong northerly winds are expected, but should become light to moderate northerlies by Wednesday, and persist through the remainder of the week. The current northwest swell is expected to peak tonight along north facing shores just below advisory levels and then diminish Monday. A bigger northwest swell on Tuesday and Wednesday will likely produce surf well above the advisory threshold for north and west facing shores. The swell will also boost combined seas above the 10 foot level, so a Small Craft Advisory will likely be needed for exposed waters. An even larger northwest swell is forecast to arrive Friday. That swell could produce warning ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 22nd, 2017

2-4 foot 3-5 foot 0-2 foot Flat A ridge north of the area will shift south ahead of a front approaching from the northwest. Winds will weaken and shift out of the southeast today as the ridge moves over the area. Winds may shift out of the south Monday and could become locally fresh again as the front approaches. The front is expected to reach the Kauai waters Monday evening and push down to the Big Island waters by Tuesday evening. Heavy showers and thunderstorms are possible ahead of and along the front. Fresh to locally strong north winds will spread over the islands behind the front. The winds will slowly veer to northeast by the end of next week. A northwest swell expected later today and Monday will likely produce surf near the advisory threshold along north facing shores overnight. This swell will diminish Monday night, but a bigger northwest swell Tuesday and Wednesday will likely produce surf well above the advisory threshold for north and west facing shores. The swell will also boost combined seas above the 10 foot level, so a Small Craft Advisory will likely be needed. An even larger northwest swell is forecast to arrive Friday. That swell could produce warning level surf along north and west facing ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 21st, 2017

5-7 foot 3-5 foot 0-2 foot 4-6 foot The recent long-lived run of strong trade winds will be soon ending as a rapidly developing storm-force low replaces the high to the north of the islands on Sunday. The high will support locally strong trade winds today, but winds are expected to become light by Sunday as the high moves east and its associated surface ridge moves over the area. The low will send a front toward the islands from the northwest early next week, which will turn winds to a southerly direction. The front is expected to move through the island chain from Monday night through Tuesday, bringing varying winds and weather. With winds gradually easing, the existing Small Craft Advisory has been trimmed to include only those zones where winds are most accelerated by island terrain. Winds and seas will fall below criteria in all areas by tonight. The High Surf Advisory for east facing shores is also cancelled this morning as seas are on a downward trend at the windward buoys. A SCA is likely for waters west of Molokai for strengthening southerly winds on Monday and Monday night. Although short-period wind waves will be easing, building north-northwest and south swells Sunday and Monday are expected to keep combined seas elevated, but ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 18th, 2017

5-7 foot 3-4 foot Flat 4-5 foot Hazardous marine conditions will continue through Friday due to strong- to gale-force trade winds and rough seas. Latest buoy observations around the islands reflect this and are holding within the 8 to 11 ft range. Heights within the 12 to 15 ft range are likely occurring over the windier locations, especially across the Pailolo and Alenuihaha Channels and waters south of the Big Island where the strongest winds are. Satellite altimetry data within the past 12 hrs even showed wave heights up to 14 ft west of Kauai. Small craft advisory headlines will remain likely through Friday over most waters. Gale conditions will likely hold over the Pailolo and Alenuihaha Channels through the day Thursday. The latest guidance lines up well with the current pattern and depicts a weakness within the ridge axis developing north of the islands over the upcoming weekend. This weakness will be in response to a frontal boundary approaching from the northwest and a weak surface trough approaching from the east. Trade winds are forecast to respond and gradually trend down late Saturday through Sunday. Seas will drop below advisory-levels (10 ft) through this time. Surf along east facing shores will remain rough through the rest of the week due to ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 14th, 2017

2-5+ foot 2-5 foot 1-4 foot 4-6+ foot Strong to gale-force east-northeasterly trade winds and associated short-period rough seas will dominate the marine forecast for the second half of the weekend and most of next week as strong high pressure will prevail north of the area. The expectation is that winds will increase through Saturday evening, and then remain elevated through at least mid-week as high pressure prevails to the north of the islands. Combined seas at PacIOOS buoys over windward waters have diminished from their rapid spike on Friday, and are running between 7 and 10 feet this morning. So while winds and seas may be below Small Craft Advisory (SCA) criteria today in some of the zones currently covered by the SCA, increasing winds and seas are expected as early as tonight. Open-ocean winds are expected to be build to near 25 kt tomorrow and continue through Thursday. Where the terrain most accelerates the wind (Pailolo and Alenuihaha Channels), a Gale Watch has been issued in anticipation of gale force winds, potentially beginning as early tomorrow. A High Surf Advisory is posted for east facing shores, where rough and elevated short-period surf is expected through at least Wednesday. A long-period south swell arriving this weekend will likely result in high surf along south facing shores by late Sunday, continuing into Monday before gradually diminishing by mid-week. A small long-period north-northwest swell is expected tomorrow ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 7th, 2017

5-8+ foot 4-7 foot 2-4 foot 5-8+ foot Winds will be light through the weekend due to a low pressure system moving toward the west-southwest towards the main Hawaiian Islands. The low is forecast to become nearly stationary several hundred miles north of the state by Sunday. Models indicate that the low will weaken early next week which will allow a weak high pressure ridge to rebuild over the northern offshore waters and restore light to moderate trades across the coastal waters some time Monday or Tuesday. A north-northeast swell has been generated by the low, and while the trade wind swell is on the decline, the north-northeast swell will keep surf along east facing shores near advisory levels today. This north-northeast swell is expected to fill in Sunday night. The High Surf Advisory has been extended through Saturday evening, and may need to be extended further depending on this swell. Surf along north facing shores exposed to this swell is expected to remain below advisory levels. The direction of the arriving swell raises some concerns for surges in the Hilo, Kahului, and Haleiwa Harbors but the swell period may be too short with this event to cause significant problems. The current north-northwest swell will trend down into the weekend. Small reinforcing south-southeast and southwest swells will keep surf from going flat along south-facing shores into next week. Tide Predictions High tide at Kahului was 2.5 foot at ...

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