Surf Forecast Archive

Maui Surf Report for November 25th, 2017

4-7 foot 2-5 foot 0-3 foot 4-6 foot The current north swell continues to fade this early Saturday morning, enough to cancel the high surf advisory for the north facing shores of the smaller islands. A High Surf Warning remains in place for the north facing shores of the Big Island to until 10 am HST this morning. It is likely the warning will be downgraded to an advisory after 10 am HST. We will continue to closely monitor the near shore buoys as the day progresses, but it appears the swell is now declining close to Wave Watch model forecast. Looking for swells from the north and northwest for the next few days, it looks like a busy period coming up, through Thursday of next week. These swells will border close to or at advisory level surf for the north facing shores for most, if not all of the islands. The time line has fore- runners from a advisory level size swell (8 feet max) to begin rolling in tonight. It will peak Sunday night. A north northwest swell, max of 7 feet and a longer period to 20 seconds, comes in on Tuesday with near advisory level surf for the north facing shores. This swell will peak Tuesday night. A similar ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 23rd, 2017

10-20++ foot 8-12 foot 1-3 foot 10-15 foot A High Surf Warning remains in effect through Friday morning for the north and east facing shores of all islands due to a very large north swell plus high wind waves due to strong to near-gale force northeast trade winds. Wave heights have been running quite a bit higher than forecast by the Wave Watch III model, so our forecast heights have been adjusted up. There will be large waves breaking in north facing harbor entrances and possibly surges in those harbors, so a Marine Weather Statement is in effect. The swell will remain quite high today, then slowly subside through Saturday. A new north swell starting on Sunday will peak on Monday and subside through Tuesday. Surf from this swell may reach advisory levels. A northwest swell, and yet another north swell are expected next Wednesday. A Small Craft Advisory is in effect through Saturday morning for strong to near-gale force northeast trade winds and large seas due to a combination of large wind waves and the large north swell. Trade winds are expected to remain strong through the first half of next week, and a new north swell will keep the seas high, so the SCA will likely be extended. Have a safe and ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 18th, 2017

2-4 foot rising 2-4 foot rising 1-3+ foot 2-4 foot Surf along east facing beaches will gradually trend down over the weekend as the trades relax and the flow shifts out of the north as a front drops south into the area and seas continue to lower. Surf along north facing shores will remain up through much of the period due to overlapping northerly swells moving through the local waters. The anomalous pattern across the northern Pacific featuring storms diving southward across the eastern Pacific from the Aleutians/Gulf of Alaska to near the islands due to a blocking ridge that remains established over the central Pacific is projected to continue through much of next week. The latest analysis showed a strong pressure gradient between 1039 mb high pressure centered near the Aleutian Islands around 45N and 1008 mb low centered several hundred nautical miles north of the islands. Persistent strong- to gale-force northerly flow locked in between these two synoptic features focused toward the local area over the past couple of days will translate to the next large northerly swell filling in through the second half of the weekend and into the upcoming week. Provided the proximity of this generation source/fetch to the local area, no significant timing or swell magnitude differences are ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 15th, 2017

5-8 foot 4-6 foot 0-2 foot 5-8+ foot Fresh to strong trades associated with 1034 mb high pressure building southward over the central Pacific following a dissipating frontal boundary that has moved into the area will translate to rough boating conditions across the Hawaiian waters through Thursday. A mix of wind seas, a small west-northwest (300 deg) swell and a, relatively short-period, north-northeast (000-020 deg) swell has already translated to advisory-level (10 ft) seas at most exposed nearshore PacIOOS buoys. Observations at these buoys are running around 1-2 ft higher than predicted. The local winds and seas should trend down temporarily Friday into the upcoming weekend as another front approaches. For surf, guidance supports the current active trend over the northeast Pacific continuing due to a persistent blocking pattern that remains established across the central Pacific. This pattern will continue to feature storm tracks setting up over the Gulf of Alaska from northwest to southeast, that will drive overlapping north-northeast swells toward the islands through the rest of the weekend and next week. The current north-northeast (000-020 deg) swell is forecast to peak today, then slowly ease through the second half of the week. This source combined with the locally strong trade winds will support rough beach conditions along east facing shores. The ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 11th, 2017

4-6+ foot 4-6+ foot 1-3 foot 5-7 foot The elevated north-northeast swell is now on the down trend. It has subsided enough to where the high surf advisory is canceled for the north facing shores. Advisory level surf, however, still continues for the east facing shores. The surf should be below advisory level by noon to where the advisory can be lowered for the east facing shores. As of 3 am HST, the near shore buoys are coming in at 5 to 6 feet with a 12 to 13 second period. Beginning Tuesday afternoon, the forerunners of another large north-northeast to northeast swell are on tap to reach the islands. Surf heights will likely reach advisory levels for the north and east facing shores between Wednesday and Thursday night. This swell is quite similar to the north-northeast swell that is now fading. Also on Tuesday, a 5 foot west-northwest (300 degrees) swell with a period of around 14 seconds is set to arrive as well. A small background northwest swell will fill in the rest of next week. Like-wise for the south facing shores where a series of small swells from primarily the southwest reaches the islands. Two long period pulses of 18 seconds each, will arrive Monday afternoon and again Wednesday night ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 5th, 2017

3-5 foot 1-3 foot 1-3 foot 3-5 foot A surface high centered far north-northeast of the state will move south through Monday, producing locally strong trade winds over the coastal waters. A Small Craft Advisory remains posted for the typically windy waters adjacent to the Big Island and the islands of Maui County through Monday afternoon. In addition, the winds are forecast to strengthen to the SCA criteria over the Kaiwi Channel and the remainder of the waters around Maui County today. Trade winds will decrease by late Monday as the surface high weakens northeast of the islands, and a front moves to a position far north-northwest of the region. Winds and seas are forecast to remain below the SCA criteria from Monday night through Thursday. The current moderate northwest swell is expected to continue through this morning, before gradually declining from later today through Monday. Surf is expected to remain below the High Surf Advisory criteria along exposed north and west facing shores through mid-week. Rough surf will increase along east facing shores into Monday due to the locally strong trade winds. In addition, a moderate northeast swell is expected to arrive later today or Monday, and hold into Tuesday. As a result of the combined trade wind and northeast swells, surf may ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 4th, 2017

3-5 foot 1-3 foot 1-3 foot 2-4 foot The trade winds have built to locally strong, to around 25 knots, thereby prompting the issuance of a Small Craft Advisory for waters around Maui County and waters south of the Big Island. This condition will likely persist until around Monday night, when the trades are expected to ease to below SCA criteria. With the windier trades, comes the choppier waters and rougher surf especially along the east facing shores. In the short term, models are indicating the trades will strengthen area-wide, reaching 30 knots in the windier waters by tonight and continuing into Sunday. The new northwest swell has reached the northern shores of Kauai and Oahu. Both the Hanalei and Waimea buoys are reporting a 3 foot swell this hour with a 15 to 16 seconds period. The deep ocean buoy 51001, located some 180 nm northwest of Kauai, got up as high as 5 feet a couple of hours ago and appears to be on its way down. Wave Watch model has this swell peaking today at 4 feet around Kauai and Oahu before tailing off gradually through Monday. A moderate size northeast swell from 030 degrees and a period of 13 to 14 seconds, is slated to reach our east facing shores ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 3rd, 2017

2-4 foot 1-3 foot 1-3 foot 1-3 foot Trade winds are expected to increase across the state as high pressure builds in from the northeast. Thus a Small Craft Advisory, beginning Friday morning, has been posted for the typically windier zones around Maui County and the Big Island. The SCA will be in effect through the day Saturday, but will likely need to be extended breezy conditions should continue through the weekend. A small long-period west-northwest swell is expected to fill in late tonight and hold into the weekend before fading into next week. Surf is expected to remain below average through early next week. Surf along east facing shores will begin to rise Friday through the weekend as the trades strengthen locally and upstream of the islands. A northeast swell (11-13 sec), from a band of strong winds that is forecast to set up across the eastern Pacific this weekend, is expected to fill in and impact the beaches early next week. The northeast swell, combined with the trade wind swell, could cause surf to approach advisory levels Monday through Tuesday. Surf along south facing shores will remain small through the weekend, but WAVEWATCH III depicts a long-period south (170-180 deg) swell filling in locally around midweek. ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 29th, 2017

10-15 foot 4-6+ foot 1-3 foot 1-4 foot The current northwest swell continues to gradually decline early this morning. The NOAA buoys located northwest of the state are measuring a swell height of around 7 feet with a wave period of 12 to 13 seconds, while the PacIOOS buoys near northern Kauai and Oahu continue to register a swell height of 8 to 9 feet with a wave period of 13 to 14 seconds. As a result, the High Surf Advisory has been extended until noon HST today for north and west facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, and Molokai, and for north facing shores of Oahu and Maui. The Small Craft Advisory has been cancelled for all Hawaiian waters this morning, since combined seas have dropped below the threshold of 10 feet. Light trade winds will continue over the island chain today. A cold front advancing toward the region from the northwest will cause winds to veer out of the southeast from late tonight through Monday. As the front continues to approach the area, winds will become southerly near Kauai and Oahu, and remain southeasterly elsewhere from Monday night through Wednesday. Trade winds are expected to make a gradual return starting Thursday. Note that SCA conditions are not forecast through the middle of ...

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Maui Surf Report for October 28th, 2017

10-20+ foot 4-6+ foot 2-4 foot 2-4+ foot A large, long-period northwest swell continues across the Hawaiian waters early this morning. Recent observations suggest the swell height may be a couple of feet above guidance. As a result, a High Surf Warning remains in effect through this afternoon for most north and west facing shores of the islands from Kauai and Niihau to Maui. In addition, a High Surf Advisory remains in effect for west facing shores of Maui and north facing shores of the Big Island. A Small Craft Advisory also remains posted for Hawaiian waters exposed to this swell due to elevated and hazardous seas. Winds are forecast to remain well below the SCA criteria this weekend. Light to locally moderate northeast winds are occurring over portions of the coastal waters in the vicinity of Kauai and Oahu this morning due to a slight tightening of the gradient behind a weak front that sagged down over the western end of the island chain overnight. The surface winds are expected to shift to a more typical trade wind direction, and weaken later today and tonight. The large northwest swell will gradually subside from later today through Sunday. Therefore, the shorelines that are presently in the warning will likely be under a High ...

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