Surf Forecast Archive

Maui Surf Report for January 12th, 2019

10-20+ foot 8-12 foot 1-3 foot 2-4+ foot A ridge just north of the islands will keep light easterly to variable winds over the area into the first half of next week. A front is expected to push down the island chain Thursday of next week. This will cause winds to blow out of the south starting about a day earlier on Wednesday. The swell has reach deep ocean buoy 51001 and 51101, both located roughly 180 nm northwest of Kauai, within the past hour, which is up to 6 hours behind schedule. The ECMWF solution, with its slower time of up to six hour, is holding up much better than WAVEWATCH III, although the swell height is fairing better with WAVEWATCH III. With this said, the peak of the surf should now occur around midnight tonight, compared to early this evening. The swell is still set to peak at around 15 feet and 18 to 19 seconds. The surf of this size is dangerous to all beachgoers, so beachgoers should exercise extreme caution and heed all warning signs and lifeguard instructions. This swell is particularly dangerous due to its rapid rise from small to large surf within a couple of hours. Warning level surf will hold through Sunday, before lowering to advisory levels sometime ...

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Maui Surf Report for January 5th, 2019

4-6 foot 2-4 foot 1-3 foot 2-4 foot Government Shutdown Issues Due to the idiotic government shutdown, many services are not available. Please be aware that several charts and models can not be created for this report due to this. Trade winds will continue to gradually trend down through the next 36 hours. Moderate to strong trade winds will continue through this morning before the real weakening process begins. A Small Craft Advisory has been hoisted for the windward Big Island waters as the trades veer a little to the south-east there later this morning. The windward Big Island waters joins the other marine zones, basically the waters around Maui County and waters south of the Big Island, to the existing SCA, which is good until 6 pm HST this afternoon. The winds will be veering from the east to the south-east over the western half of the island chain late this afternoon, then to the south late tonight. Winds will become light and variable over the surrounding waters on Sunday, especially over the western half of the island chain, while east to south-east winds prevails elsewhere. The light and variable winds are the result of a surface ridge, currently 350 nm north of Kauai, settling over the northern islands by Sunday afternoon. This ridge will stay put ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 30th, 2018

3-5 foot 1-3 foot 0-3 foot 3-5 foot High pressure north of the state will keep moderate to strong trade winds blowing across the marine area through Friday. A Small Craft Advisory is now in effect for the typically windy waters around Maui and the Big Island, as well as the windward waters of Maui County and Oahu through Wednesday. The SCA will likely need to be expanded to include more marine zones Monday night through late next week due to a series of northwest swells moving through the coastal waters building seas at or above the 10 foot SCA threshold. The current northwest swell will continue to decline today and tonight. A new small northwest swell will build Monday, then peak well below advisory levels Monday night and Tuesday. A larger northwest swell will build Tuesday and Tuesday night, peaking at or near advisory levels Wednesday through Thursday. Persistent moderate to strong trades will result in elevated surf along east facing shores through much of the upcoming week, with advisory level surf possible at times, particularly Tuesday through late next week. ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 26th, 2018

6-10+ foot 2-4+ foot 0-3 foot 2-4 foot The light to moderate trade winds will be giving way to a light and variable wind situation over the western part of the island chain by tonight, while a light to moderate easterly wind flow prevails elsewhere. This comes about as a trough forms in the vicinity of Kauai later today and stays put there through Thursday. A front is then forecast to weaken as it enter the northwest offshore waters Thursday night and Friday. To make the situation more complicated, an upper level disturbance has brought in some instability to the area, resulting in the potential for a thunderstorm or two mainly over the western waters initially, then all waters Thursday through Friday. As the front weakens, high pressure strengthens over the area resulting in strong trades over the weekend. We are expected a reinforcing northwest swell that will bring the surf heights up along the north and west facing shores on Wednesday to near advisory levels. Deep ocean buoy 51001, located some 180 nm northwest of Kauai, has been indicating a 9 foot sig wave height for the evening with a 14 second period out of the NW. This is about or slightly smaller than Wave Watch guidance. We will continue to monitor the situation closely ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 18th, 2018

8-12+ foot 4-6+ foot 1-3+ foot 2-4+ foot Long-period forerunners from a new northwest swell have hit the NOAA buoys 51001 and 51101 last evening and continued to move southeastward toward the island chain through the night. Surf is expected to begin building over exposed north and west facing shores overnight Monday, reaching advisory levels around daybreak Tuesday. Surf will continue to rise through the day Tuesday and likely reach warning levels by late in the afternoon. Surf is expected to peak Tuesday night through Wednesday, then gradually lower through the rest of the week. The peak of the surf is expected to occur near the peak of the spring high tides during the pre-dawn hours on Wednesday, giving way to above average coastal wave run-up. A High Surf Warning remains in effect for exposed north and west facing shores from midnight tonight through Tuesday night. A High Surf Advisory remains in effect for north facing shores of the Big Island from 6 AM Tuesday through Tuesday night. These headlines may eventually need to be extended through Wednesday. A SCA remains in effect for all Hawaiian waters for winds, seas or a combination of the two through Wednesday. The SCA will likely need to be extended for much of the marine area through Thursday. Light ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 16th, 2018

15-20+ foot 8-12+ foot 0-3 foot 2-4+ foot High pressure to the north will maintain moderate to locally strong trade winds through tonight. A front approaching from the northwest will shift the high further to the east, which will decrease the trades some for Monday. The front is expected to begin impacting the northwest waters around Kauai on Tuesday, and pushing down the island chain reaching the waters around Big Island Tuesday night. Strong north winds are expected with and behind the frontal passage. High pressure is expected to return northeast of the state for the end of the week. The new long-period northwest swell reached buoy 51101 to the northwest of the islands overnight, a bit smaller than expected, and a few hours delayed. The Hanalei Bay buoy has started to show this as well, so have lowered swell and wave height grids to better account for the buoy observations. The forecast reflects low end Small Craft Advisory for the coastal waters through tonight due to a combination of winds and seas. Surf is still expected to rise today, so the High Surf Warning for north and west facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, and north facing shores of Maui and High Surf Advisory for north facing shores of the Big Island remains in ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 6th, 2018

10-15+ foot 5-8 foot 0-3 foot 1-4 foot The active pattern across the northern Pacific is forecast to continue through the upcoming weekend with reinforcing moderate to large north and northwest swells expected across the Hawaiian waters into next week. The first in the series peaked Wednesday, which drove surf along exposed coasts well above warning levels. The morning observations at the offshore buoys north and northwest of the islands remain elevated, but have started to slowly lower. Surf will respond and begin to ease later today, likely dropping below warning levels by this evening. A reinforcement out of 320 deg from the same gale- to storm-force low that has essentially stalled over the Aleutians just east of the Date Line in the past 24 hrs is forecast to begin filling in this evening, peak tonight, then gradually lower through Saturday. This reinforcement will support advisory-level surf holding through the day Friday before lowering Friday night through Saturday. The third in the series of large swell events is forecast to fill in Saturday night, peak Sunday, then slowly lower into the beginning of the upcoming week. This source will be associated with a gale- to storm-force low that has developed near the Aleutians this morning tracking east-southeastward around the Date Line. A decent ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 5th, 2018

10-15+ foot 3-5+ foot 0-2 foot 2-4 foot Buoy 51101 had a peaked swell height of 15 feet and a period of 15 to 17 seconds at 11 pm HST. It is a couple of feet lower as of 2 am HST. The near-shore Waimea Bay buoy had a reading of 12 feet and 18 seconds as of 2 am HST. So there is still some room to grow as the morning progresses, but it should peak later this morning on Kauai and Oahu's north and west facing shores. The High Surf Warning has been updated and now goes out to 6 pm HST Thursday. By Thursday night, the surf should be in the advisory range, and this condition is likely to persist into Saturday. A moderate to large north- northwest to north pulse will arrive Saturday evening, and max out Sunday. This swell may reach low end warning level surf for the north facing shores, and advisory level surf on the west side on Sunday. For the east facing shoreline, surf will be small to moderate in size today through Thursday, then build up to advisory level surf over the weekend. This is in response to the expected strengthening of the trade winds to strong and blustery. Surf along south facing shores will remain small ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 4th, 2018

4-6 am | 8-12 pm 2-4 am | 6-10 pm 0-2 foot 1-4+ foot High pressure north of the state will keep a fresh to strong trade wind flow in place across the coastal waters through Friday. Expect a slight easing of the trades late Wednesday through Thursday as a cold front passes by north of the island chain. The trades will increase again later Friday and become quite strong through early next week as a front moves through the state and strong high pressure builds northwest of the area. A Small Craft Advisory is now in effect for all marine zones through Friday, due to strong winds, high seas from a large northwest swell, or a combination of the two. The SCA will likely need to be extended through the weekend and into early next week. Additionally, gales are possible in the Alenuihaha Channel early next week. A large northwest swell will build later today, peak tonight and Wednesday, then slowly lower through the remainder of the week. A High Surf Warning (HSW) has been issued for north and west facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and north facing shores of Maui beginning later today. The HSW will run through noon on Thursday, with advisory level surf likely continuing through Friday night. Additionally, ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 3rd, 2018

2-4 foot 1-3 foot 0-2 foot 1-3 foot High pressure well north of the state will shift eastward over the next several days, keeping moderate to locally breezy trade winds in place across the marine area. A Small Craft Advisory remains in place for the typically windy waters around Maui and the Big Island through Tuesday. A large northwest swell is expected to move into the region from northwest to southeast Tuesday and Tuesday night, so the SCA will likely need to be expanded to include the remaining marine zones through the end of the work week due to seas at or above the 10 foot threshold. A weakening front will pass by to the north of the islands Wednesday through Thursday, and this should decrease the trade wind speeds a bit, with a strong new high then building northwest of the island chain Thursday night through the weekend, bringing strong trades to the entire marine area. In fact, SCA level winds appear likely across all marine zones over the weekend, with Gales possible in the windier waters around Maui and the Big Island. The current small northwest swell will slowly fade through Tuesday. Surf associated with this swell will remain well below the advisory level. A new large northwest swell associated with an ...

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