Surf Forecast Archive

Maui Surf Report for December 10th, 2017

8-12+ foot 5-8+ foot 0-3 foot 3-5 foot The north-northwest swell at Buoys 51101/51000 is running close to Wavewatch guidance currently, and is still forecast to peak later today around the islands. This swell will produce warning-level surf for north and some west facing shores of most smaller islands, before subsiding on Monday. A High Surf Warning remains in effect for today and tonight for those areas. North facing shores of the Big Island will be under a High Surf Advisory for today and tonight. Warning-level impacts are not expected on the Big Island due to the 330-340 swell direction, and the peak of the event occurring closer to low tide. Tidal impacts are not expected to be an issue as the predicted astronomical tides are lower than with the last event. Seas will build rapidly above 10 feet this morning as the next north-northwest swell fills in. Therefore, a Small Craft Advisory remains in effect for most of the coastal waters through tonight. Seas should subside below 10 feet again on Monday, but build quickly once again late Tuesday into Wednesday, as another even larger north-northwest swell arrives. Another even larger north-northwest swell is forecast to arrive Tuesday afternoon, peaking Tuesday night into Wednesday. This swell is expected to produce warning-level surf on ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 9th, 2017

4-7 foot 1-4 foot 0-3 foot 1-4 foot Surf along north and west facing shores will continue to subside through most of today as the old north-northwest swell fades out. The next north-northwest swell is forecast to arrive during the afternoon and build quickly tonight into Sunday morning. This swell will likely produce warning-level surf for north and some west facing shores as it peaks on Sunday, before subsiding on Monday. Will let later shifts make the final decision on high surf warning issuance for this swell. Another even larger north-northwest swell is forecast to arrive late Tuesday, peaking Tuesday night into Wednesday. This swell will very likely produce warning-level surf on north and west facing shores. Winds will remain below Small Craft Advisory levels across the Hawaiian coastal waters through today, as a weak ridge lingers across the area ahead of an approaching cold front. This front is forecast to reach Kauai late this afternoon, then move over the central islands tonight, before stalling over Maui County on Sunday. A brief period of increased north-northeast winds is expected soon after the front moves through, with winds possibly reaching SCA levels in some areas around Kauai and Oahu. Gentle to moderate trades will briefly prevail across most areas Sunday into Sunday night as the ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 8th, 2017

7-10+ foot 4-7+ foot 0-3 foot 2-4+ foot Due to a diminishing yet still large north-northwest swell, a High Surf Advisory is posted through Friday, with surf along exposed north and west facing shores expected to decrease below advisory levels by the end of the day. Another large north-northwest is expected Saturday night and Sunday, likely producing warning-level surf along most north facing and some west facing shores before diminishing Monday. An even larger north-northwest swell is indicated by forecast models to occur around the middle of next week, once again producing warning-level surf. Winds will remain well below Small Craft Advisory levels (SCA) through at least Saturday as a nearby surface ridge supports light winds. An approaching front will push the ridge south-east toward the Big Island on Saturday, and then bring a bring short-lived increase in northeast winds late Saturday and Sunday. Winds may briefly reach SCA speeds, especially near Kauai and Oahu, as the front stalls and weakens near the central portion of the island chain. Winds will shift to the east and weaken through Sunday as a weak high moves rapidly from west to east along 28N, and the trailing ridge is shunted toward the islands as another front approaches. The ridge will get pushed well south-east of the ...

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Maui Surf Report for December 2nd, 2017

5-8 foot 3-5 foot 0-3 foot 5-8 foot The north-northwest (330 deg) swell that peaked over the past couple of days will continue to ease through the weekend. Surf associated with this source along exposed north and west facing shores will respond and trend down. The high surf advisory for north facing shores has been dropped this morning. The latest surface analysis showed a large gale-force low (964 mb) parked over the western Bering Sea. Satellite data showed a persistent area of gale-force westerly winds to its south over the far northwest Pacific centered around the 320 degree directional band relative to the islands. Altimetry data over this fetch region has been showing seas hovering around 25 ft (was 30 ft Thursday night) over the past couple of days. Wave model guidance supports long-period forerunners associated with this source filling in across the local waters through the day Sunday and Sunday night out of the northwest (320 deg), then building into the upcoming week. This source will become reinforced Monday night through midweek as a decent sized area of gales develop out of the north trailing a cold front projected to move down the island chain. Surf along exposed north and west facing shores associated with this active pattern could near advisory levels ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 28th, 2017

6-8+ foot 4-6+ foot 0-2 foot 5-8 foot Fresh to locally strong trade winds are expected to continue through most of the week, particularly in the channels and in the waters south of the Big Island, where Small Craft Advisory levels are expected. A series of north-northwest swells will be arriving in the islands over the next several days, which will help to keep combined seas above the SCA levels through the week. Winds in Maalaea Bay are expected to drop below SCA levels by tonight, and will be sheltered from the incoming swells. However winds may pick up in the bay later in the week. The trade winds continue to produce low end advisory level surf along the east facing shores. Currently expecting a bit of a decrease in the trade wind swell tonight and tomorrow, however surf is expected to remain near advisory levels through much of the week. A new north-northwest swell is expected to build today. Some long period energy has been seen at the buoys to the northwest of the islands, and that energy is expected to reach the islands later this morning. This swell is expected to peak at near advisory levels for the north and west facings shores tonight. A High Surf Advisory may be needed later ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 25th, 2017

4-7 foot 2-5 foot 0-3 foot 4-6 foot The current north swell continues to fade this early Saturday morning, enough to cancel the high surf advisory for the north facing shores of the smaller islands. A High Surf Warning remains in place for the north facing shores of the Big Island to until 10 am HST this morning. It is likely the warning will be downgraded to an advisory after 10 am HST. We will continue to closely monitor the near shore buoys as the day progresses, but it appears the swell is now declining close to Wave Watch model forecast. Looking for swells from the north and northwest for the next few days, it looks like a busy period coming up, through Thursday of next week. These swells will border close to or at advisory level surf for the north facing shores for most, if not all of the islands. The time line has fore- runners from a advisory level size swell (8 feet max) to begin rolling in tonight. It will peak Sunday night. A north northwest swell, max of 7 feet and a longer period to 20 seconds, comes in on Tuesday with near advisory level surf for the north facing shores. This swell will peak Tuesday night. A similar ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 23rd, 2017

10-20++ foot 8-12 foot 1-3 foot 10-15 foot A High Surf Warning remains in effect through Friday morning for the north and east facing shores of all islands due to a very large north swell plus high wind waves due to strong to near-gale force northeast trade winds. Wave heights have been running quite a bit higher than forecast by the Wave Watch III model, so our forecast heights have been adjusted up. There will be large waves breaking in north facing harbor entrances and possibly surges in those harbors, so a Marine Weather Statement is in effect. The swell will remain quite high today, then slowly subside through Saturday. A new north swell starting on Sunday will peak on Monday and subside through Tuesday. Surf from this swell may reach advisory levels. A northwest swell, and yet another north swell are expected next Wednesday. A Small Craft Advisory is in effect through Saturday morning for strong to near-gale force northeast trade winds and large seas due to a combination of large wind waves and the large north swell. Trade winds are expected to remain strong through the first half of next week, and a new north swell will keep the seas high, so the SCA will likely be extended. Have a safe and ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 18th, 2017

2-4 foot rising 2-4 foot rising 1-3+ foot 2-4 foot Surf along east facing beaches will gradually trend down over the weekend as the trades relax and the flow shifts out of the north as a front drops south into the area and seas continue to lower. Surf along north facing shores will remain up through much of the period due to overlapping northerly swells moving through the local waters. The anomalous pattern across the northern Pacific featuring storms diving southward across the eastern Pacific from the Aleutians/Gulf of Alaska to near the islands due to a blocking ridge that remains established over the central Pacific is projected to continue through much of next week. The latest analysis showed a strong pressure gradient between 1039 mb high pressure centered near the Aleutian Islands around 45N and 1008 mb low centered several hundred nautical miles north of the islands. Persistent strong- to gale-force northerly flow locked in between these two synoptic features focused toward the local area over the past couple of days will translate to the next large northerly swell filling in through the second half of the weekend and into the upcoming week. Provided the proximity of this generation source/fetch to the local area, no significant timing or swell magnitude differences are ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 15th, 2017

5-8 foot 4-6 foot 0-2 foot 5-8+ foot Fresh to strong trades associated with 1034 mb high pressure building southward over the central Pacific following a dissipating frontal boundary that has moved into the area will translate to rough boating conditions across the Hawaiian waters through Thursday. A mix of wind seas, a small west-northwest (300 deg) swell and a, relatively short-period, north-northeast (000-020 deg) swell has already translated to advisory-level (10 ft) seas at most exposed nearshore PacIOOS buoys. Observations at these buoys are running around 1-2 ft higher than predicted. The local winds and seas should trend down temporarily Friday into the upcoming weekend as another front approaches. For surf, guidance supports the current active trend over the northeast Pacific continuing due to a persistent blocking pattern that remains established across the central Pacific. This pattern will continue to feature storm tracks setting up over the Gulf of Alaska from northwest to southeast, that will drive overlapping north-northeast swells toward the islands through the rest of the weekend and next week. The current north-northeast (000-020 deg) swell is forecast to peak today, then slowly ease through the second half of the week. This source combined with the locally strong trade winds will support rough beach conditions along east facing shores. The ...

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Maui Surf Report for November 11th, 2017

4-6+ foot 4-6+ foot 1-3 foot 5-7 foot The elevated north-northeast swell is now on the down trend. It has subsided enough to where the high surf advisory is canceled for the north facing shores. Advisory level surf, however, still continues for the east facing shores. The surf should be below advisory level by noon to where the advisory can be lowered for the east facing shores. As of 3 am HST, the near shore buoys are coming in at 5 to 6 feet with a 12 to 13 second period. Beginning Tuesday afternoon, the forerunners of another large north-northeast to northeast swell are on tap to reach the islands. Surf heights will likely reach advisory levels for the north and east facing shores between Wednesday and Thursday night. This swell is quite similar to the north-northeast swell that is now fading. Also on Tuesday, a 5 foot west-northwest (300 degrees) swell with a period of around 14 seconds is set to arrive as well. A small background northwest swell will fill in the rest of next week. Like-wise for the south facing shores where a series of small swells from primarily the southwest reaches the islands. Two long period pulses of 18 seconds each, will arrive Monday afternoon and again Wednesday night ...

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